Bunnahabhain K&L Excl. SVUC “Staoisha” Heavily Peated, 4yo, 2014/2019

Rating31/40
OriginScotland, Islay, North Shore
DistilleryBunnahabhain
OwnerDistell Group
DistilledOctober 23rd, 2014
BottlerSignatory Vintage
SeriesUn-Chillfiltered Collection
StyleSingle Barrel Single Malt Whisky
Peatedyes
CaskDechar/rechar Hogshead #10723
BottledJun 10th, 2019
Bottles284
Strength60.6% (121.2 proof)
RetailerK&L Wine Merchants
Price$70

Nose: The peat appears in the form of compressed chocolate harvested from ancient bogs. The best such chocolate is often apparently somewhat fuzzy. (8/10)

Palate: The fuzzy chocolate from the nose melts into some mild Oolong tea served alongside it. Also, the table legs appear to be on fire. (7/10)

Finish: Heat stings the flanks of my tongue. These peripheral sensations meet up like the arms of a rather strangely shaped tuning fork back down in my esophagus. A hamster appears to have stored chocolate pudding in my cheeks. For the winter one assumes. (8/10)

Balance: A bit bumpy as a ride perhaps, which is not at all surprising for a 4 year old. Nevertheless absolutely enjoyable and well in line with Bunna’s recent push into bolder and peatier territory. (8/10)

KaVaLan Solist Port Cask Duty Free 2018

Rating35/40
OriginTaiwan
DistilleryKavalan
StyleSingle Barrel Single Malt Whisky
CaskPort Cask 0110112016A
BottledSeptember 20th, 2018
Bottles149
Strength57.8% (115.6 proof)
RetailerTravel Retail Exclusive
Price$160

Nose: Rusty cherries and baker’s plums. Smells like a bright red plate that had fresh squeezed lemon squirted on it. Later strawberries rise from wine-soaked brown paper bags. Someone is taking off leather gloves a few houses down the block using them to stack a bunch of iron ingots. (8/10)

Palate: Sizzling strawberries and peaches stitched together with Meyer lemon threads. Later vaguely berry flavored dry book pages made from leather. (9/10)

Finish: Moist, rich, warm strawberry pie lubricated by browned butter slips easily and somewhat lasciviously over the back of the tongue and down into the throat all the while releasing tiny little puffs of cinnamon. (9/10)

Balance: Very berry butter puree. (9/10)

Nikka Yoichi, 15yo

Rating32/40
OriginJapan
DistilleryNikka Yoichi
OwnerAsahi Breweries
StyleSingle Malt Whisky
Strength45% (90 proof)
RetailerNo longer available.

Nose: Someone left a leather jacket draped over a crate of old oranges and went to polish their shoes at the other end of the room. (8/10)

Palate: Sucking on a dried up orange peel that had been previously used to garnish a well balanced Negroni. (8/10)

Finish: After considering things for a while I have come to believe that shoe polish does have a place in caring for antique furniture. A few blocks down the road someone is burning oak chairs. (8/10)

Balance: Lovely. Delicate for sure, but lovely. (8/10)

Old Pulteney K&L Exclusive Cask #231, 13yo, 2004/2018

Rating33.6/40
OriginScotland, Northern Highlands
DistilleryOld Pulteney
OwnerThaiBev via Inver House Distillers
Distilled2004
StyleSingle Barrel Single Malt Whisky
Bottled2018
Bottles242
Strength55.2% (110.4 proof)
RetailerK&L Wine Merchants

Nose: Effervescent earthy orange candy. Rises from the glass like a dew sprinkled mushroom cap, gently glittering in the soft forest light. Don’t get me wrong… there is nothing woodlandish about this. It’s just an image that arose when I was thinking about the movement and character of the nose. Everything is rich and deep, yet gentle like the colors of moss and fern in the soft light under quiet trees. Quite beautiful. Later it drifts towards something resembling a faint BBQ savoriness. (8.8/10)

Palate: Crawling fire spreads here and there. Spots of burning shoe polish emit puffs of smoke wafting about. And yet, as a whole, this palate is bright with almost metallic notes shimmering on top of the subtly smouldering depths. (9.4/10)

Finish: Life is too short. So is this whisky. It never reaches the throat or chest. The finish floats near the roof of the mouth with some lovely orange-flavored smokiness and some decent initial heat that disintegrates into hollow echoes of itself. Sigh. I can’t emphasize enough how enamoured I am by this whisky and how much it hurts to be let down by its finish in this way. (7.5/10)

Balance: If it wasn’t for the short reach and, compared to nose and palate, lacking heft of the finish this whisky would be quite amazing. But that finish fails to live up to everything else and because the finish is, well, the finish it colors the whole experience. Such a bummer. But the rest is still absolutely worth it for early experience. (7.9/10)

Starward Nova, 2yo

Starward Nova
Rating32/40
OriginAustralia
DistilleryStarward
StyleSingle Malt Whisky
CaskAustralian Red Wine Casks
Strength41% (82 proof)
Price$45-90

Nose: Dark fruit, cherries and strawberries leading earthier wine notes. (8/10)

Palate: The wine influence comes to the fore and mixes into a batch of cookie dough. (8/10)

Finish: A mixture of wine and orange with hints of baking spices. It leaves a kind of gummy bear coating. (8/10)

Balance: This is surprisingly good for such a youngster but it needs a lot of time in the glass to get a hold of all its parts and assemble them into something presentable. Water makes a shambles of it all. (8/10)

Ardbeg Drum Ardbeg Day 2019 Committee Release

Ardbeg Drum Committee Release Close-up
Rating31/40
OriginScotland, Islay, South Shore
DistilleryArdbeg
OwnerLVMH Moët Hennessy – Louis Vuitton SE via Glenmorangie
SeriesArdbeg Day Committee Release
StyleSingle Malt Whisky
PeatedYes
CaskBourbon Cask Maturation, Rum Cask Finish
BottledNovember 2018
Strength52% (104 proof)
Price$145-250

Nose: Smoke drifts past freshly ground metal shavings used to season a barrel of mackerels. Right after the bottle was cracked open there was some mild sour fruit rising out of and above the smoke but that element was quickly aired out. (9/10)

Palate: A slightly bitter and tangy kernel hides out in a fluffy cloud of smoke. (7/10)

Finish: Smoke tentatively probes the back of my mouth but is too scared to jump off the ledge down into my throat even though there is a cushy pile of embers to land on at the bottom. (8/10)

Balance: Just a bit off in the middle but otherwise very nice. We have not yet returned to the level of the grand old Ardbeg Day releases such as the original Supernova or the stupendous Rollercoaster. (8/10)

Bunnahbhain Pedro Ximénez Finish Ltd. Release, 14yo, 2003/2017

Bunnahabhain PX Finish Ltd. Release, 2003/2017, 14yo., close-up
Rating32/40
OriginScotland, Islay, North Shore
DistilleryBunnahabhain
OwnerDistell Group
DistilledMarch 24th, 2003
StyleSmall Batch Single Malt Whisky
Cask2nd fill Sherry casks followed by 3 years in Pedro Ximénez casks
BottledJune 21st, 2017
Bottles6768
Strength54.3% (108.6 proof)
Price$100-200

Nose: A little funky. Some unripe fruit and perhaps blue cheese? (7/10)

Palate: More fruit. (8/10)

Finish: The fruit them continues but with fruit gums. (9/10)

Balance: Odd stuff, this one, but nice. (8/10)

Aultmore Sovereign K&L Excl., 9yo, 2008/2017

Aultmore Sovereign K&L Excl., 2008/2017, 9yo., close-up
Rating31/40
OriginScotland, Central Speyside
DistilleryAultmore
OwnerBacardi via John Dewar & Sons
DistilledJune 2008
BottlerHunter Laing & Co.
SeriesSovereign
StyleSingle Barrel Single Malt Whisky
CaskSherry Butt #HL13138
BottledAugust 2017
Bottles631
Strength59,8% (119.6 proof)
RetailerK&L Wine Merchants

Nose: The mummified corpses of licorice candies melted under the Saharan sun and shriveled up to a state of utterly desiccated, dark tightness. (8/10)

Palate: Beastly and rough but full of beauty and power in its hot, raging magnificence. (9/10)

Finish: Bitter, medicinal flavors slowly build and layer in the back. (9/10)

Balance: And what rough beast dram, its hour come round at last, slouches towards Bethlehem my mouth to be born drunk. (9/10)

Bowmore Old Particular K&L Excl., 20yo, 1997/2017

Bowmore Old Particular K&L Excl., 1997/2017, 20yo., close-up

Rating31/40
OriginScotland, Islay, Loch Indaal
DistilleryBowmore
OwnerSuntory Holdings via Beam Suntory via Morrison Bowmore Distillers
DistilledMarch 1997
BottlerDouglas Laing & Co.
SeriesOld Particular
StyleSingle Barrel Single Malt
PeatedYes
CaskRefill Hogshead #DL11677
Bottled April 2017
Bottles281
Strength55.7% (111.4 proof)
RetailerK&L Wine Merchants

Nose: When first opening the bottle there is peat smoked paprika rubbed on grilled sardines that had been washed with lavender soap. Once aired out the very Bowmore lavender component disappears. Very nice! (9/10)

Palate: Damn. The Bowmore floweriness comes through on the first hit with hot lavender flavored muratic acid. Really brightens the old grout between your teeth. A field of lavender. On fire. (7/10)

Finish: The initial wave of fire breaks in the back and floods the throat with wood and heat. This one gets rougher and dirtier with water. Some dry dark chocolate emerges. (7/10)

Balance: Not my favorite perhaps but nice and interesting enough. (8/10)